Easter

This year, I celebrated two Easters. Easter #1, the Western Easter, occured while in Cyprus. Easter #2, the Orthodox Easter occured a couple of weeks ago. I have heard (although I haven't confirmed it) that Jordan's Christian population shows solidarity by officially celebrating Christmas on the Western calendar and Easter on the Orthodox one.

On Sunday morning, 'M' and I went together to a nearby Catholic mass in English. We were both hoping for something significantly more traditional and ritualized than the international evangelical church in Cyprus, and the service fulfilled that (despite, as M noticed, a lack of chanting and incense). It's worth noting that many of the churchgoers for the English service were South Asian (Sri Lanka, Philippines, etc); a lot of South Asian women come to Jordan to work in salons, spas, and as house keepers (i.e. more menial service jobs). If they speak a second language, it is usually English (not Arabic), hence coming to the English mass. Accordingly, in lieu of an organ or even a piano, the hymns were supported by guitar and tambourine. M, who has been to several English-language Catholic churches in Amman, said that it's the same at all of them- a large South Asian contingent and guitar/tambourine musical accompaniment. Still, the service was traditional enough and included fundamental aspects of an Easter service, so M and I left feeling fulfilled.

Back at home, my host family had spent the morning dusting and washing every nook and cranny to make the house even more spotless than usual, since Easter in Jordan means spent visiting or being visited. Earlier that week, three evenings had been devoted to making the special Easter cookies (ma'amul) to be served to every guest who came to my house, my aunt's house, or my other aunt's house (it was a joint project- many hands make light work). Alhamdulillah we had enough! (Actually, many had to be frozen and we're still eating them). When I got home on Sunday at about 2:30pm, my host father's brother, his wife, and their children were all there. Over the course of the day, there would be five groups of guests, until the rest of my family went over to my aunt's house to host more guests there (I took the opportunity to go to sleep).

A typical visit goes like this: guests sit down, receive napkins, get offered ma'amul and tiny cups of Arabic coffee. talk, talk, talk. guests then get offered several types of chocolate candy; they seemed obliged to take at least one of everything. talk, talk, talk. if the guests are still there, they are then offered tea as well. talk, talk. finally guests leave.

And then more come.

Mid-afternoon, my family and the current set of guests went over to my aunt's house for the big lunch. That morning, since I hadn't seen anyone cooking anything, I thought that perhaps people skipped a formal lunch on Easter in lieu to entertaining guests and eating cookies. As a result, I got lunch with M after the service instead of just getting coffee. Silly, silly me- what Jordanian family gathering would ever be complete without a huge meal? I had been right about nothing being cooked....but only because the families had decided to get take-out Popeyes (i.e. fried chicken, biscuits, mashed potatoes, and french fries), which is considered less of a cheap fast food here than it is in the States (in part because it's not that cheap). I survived the meal by taking the requisite small piece of chicken, couple french fries, and half a biscuit, and then keeping my plate filled with salad so as not to raise anyone's suspicion/concern.

Over the course of the day, I saw various aunts, uncles, and cousins. I recognized only some of them and knew the names of even fewer, but it was pleasant enough. By the end of it, my host sisters (who were doing all of the serving) didn't even bother offering my host parents or me the candy or coffee, since we'd had more than enough. This Easter was a far cry from my American family's "normal" celebration: Easter baskets, church, nap, afternoon dinner (normally with a ham as the center piece). Still, a good experience and one that I am very, very glad to have had.

Off to find food, more later. Yalla bye.